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The Formless in Form

Thiruvannamalai revisited

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Witnessing the Flame of Shiva: Karthika Deepam

Every year, lakhs of devotees flock to Thiruvannamalai to witness the Karthika Deepam, the sacred flame lit atop Arunachala during the Karthika festival in November/December.

According to legend, it was on this day and in this very place that the goddess Parvati became enlightened after a period of arduous penance. On a small hillock facing Arunachala, a shrine dedicated to Devi (Parvati) stands even today.

This year, a small group of devotees, led by Swamiji, made our way to Thiruvannamalai to witness the event. Braving the crowds thronging Thiruvannamalai's narrow streets, fighting traffic, clambering up a rocky hillock, we finally got to the small Dhyanapeetam ashram, beautifully positioned with Arunachala to its west, and the Devi shrine to its east.

A sight like we never imagined awaited us at the top. As the sun set behind Arunachala, washing the western sky in a pink blaze, a luminous moon rose into the deep blue sky behind the shrine. We entered silently into meditation, guided by Swamiji.

Suddenly the air was filled with ecstatic cries of Arunachala harohara!, and we saw that the Karthika Deepam had burst into life at the crest of the towering Arunachala. Below us, the temple towers, and the entire town, were illumined in fairytale lights.

It was an incredibly beautiful experience - that became still more precious and unforgettable by the divine presence of the Master.

Thiruvannamalai landscape with temple towers

Thiruvannamalai town illuminated for the festival (below)

The Karthika Deepam seen close up (inset)

The Karthika Deepam seen close up
Thiruvannamalai town illuminated for the festival
The ashram built by Mataji Kuppammal for Swamiji

The ashram built by Mataji Kuppammal for Swamiji when he was a boy. (above)

Swamiji poses outside the ashram
against the perfect backdrop of
Arunachala. (below)

Swamiji poses outside the ashram against the backdrop of Arunachala
A street scene

A street scene. The bustiling town is specially dressed up for the festiove occasion.

Mataji Kuppammal's home

Mataji Kuppammal's home, now no longer in use.

Swamiji steps out onto the street

Swamiji steps out for a moment onto the street where he spent his childhood years.

Stepping out was a bad idea..! Swamiji is recognised, and a huge crowd gathers, eager for his blessings and his touch.

Crowd gathers around Swamiji's car
A NOSTALGIC MOMENT: Swamiji recounts the thrilling experience to a group of disciples.

A NOSTALGIC MOMENT: Swamiji recounts the thrilling experience to a group of disciples.